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Troubleshooting the Viper winch electrical system
(this information applies to Viper
winches only) |
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In this
section lets take a look at diagnosing the basic electrical system for
Viper winches. I'm not going to get deep into electrical theory here
but rather provide some basic information to help in general repairs
of your winch system. It is also my goal to give you a better
understanding of how the system works, not to mention saving a few
bucks.
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Warning !!
You are working with high
current electricity!!
Safety is a must!
Always wear safety glasses. |
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Although 12 volts most likely won't kill you,12 volts at very high
amperage can blow the tip off your screw driver, vaporize your lead
battery post, and can even brand the name of your favorite wrench
(that you just happen to be holding) permanently into the palm of your hand! It can blow molten metal into your eyes and across your shop,
which can easily melt through plastic gas cans and turn a
weekend project into a nightmare. Use caution, take your time and be
safe. Installing a winch isn't as tough as it might seem and is a
great DIY project. |
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Tools |
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A common test
light |
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An inexpensive
multi meter |
| Lets
begin with tools. There are 5 basic tools that each and everyone
of us already have. They are your sense of sight, hearing,
smell, touch, and taste. Don't ignore your own senses,90% of
trouble can be fixed by understanding what you sense. The other
10% you will need at least a common test light and or an
inexpensive multi meter. Both of which you most likely already
own. |
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general check: |
Before
attempting any repairs disconnect the negative battery cables!! |
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Since were only looking at the electrical system in this section
we will assume the winch motor is in working order. First, Is
the battery dead? Sounds like a dumb question but the battery is
the muscle of the winch system. Without a good strong battery
the winch will not work properly. Take a good look at the winch wiring, the contactor, handle bar switch
and all the connections associated with the winch system. Look
for broken, disconnected, burned or melted wires. Any kind of
debris can get thrown up in very tight places and cause trouble.
Cables and wires that have been routed to close to hot engines
and especially exhaust systems are big causes of trouble. Poorly
made connections and corrosion, are problem areas as
well. All of this can be checked in just a few minutes. If
everything looks good, read on. |
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The handle bar / corded remote
switch |
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The handle bar switch is the remote switch that controls the
contactor. The corded remote switch does the same thing but
allows you some mobility while using the winch. They can be used
together or alone. |
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| Testing the switch |
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Using your test light, connect the alligator clip to a good
ground. Disconnect the small green and black wires at the
contactor. Connect the probe to the green wire. Turn the key
switch on. Push the handle bar switch in both directions. The
tester should light in one direction but not the other. Now
probe the small black wire. Again push the switch in both
directions, it should light in the opposite direction that the
green one did. If you get no power, be sure the small red wire
has 12v.If you get power in one direction only,
or power on both wires in one direction, replace the switch. |
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The Contactor |
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What is it? The contactor is just a remotely controlled switch that
turns the winch motor on and off. It also reverses the polarity of
the cables that go to the winch motor when you change from "out"
to "in" and vice versa. Inside there are two solenoids that
operate high current switches. The contactor will make a loud
"click" when pushing the handle bar switch in either direction
when working normally. |
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| Testing the
contactor |
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Test #1
Turn on the key switch. Push the in or out button and
listen for the loud "click" of the contactor. It should "click" in
both directions. If it does absolutely nothing make sure the small
red power supply wire that comes out of the handle bar switch
harness is connected to a switched 12 volt power supply, usually
the main power circuit at the key switch (consult the wiring
diagram for your machine). For testing purposes sometimes I will
connect this wire directly to the battery + (positive) terminal.
This can sometimes help you determine if it's connected to a 12v
power wire or not. If you have 12v on the power wire and all cable
connections are good and still no click, replace the contactor.
Test # 2 If the contactor clicks in both directions
the solenoid part of the contactor is OK. For A & B
style contactors (see below) take your test light and connect
the alligator clip to the black stud (battery-)
on the contactor. Now probe the red stud (battery +) your test
light should light up. This tells you that battery voltage is
present. If the light doesn't light up check connections at the
contactor and the battery.
For C style contactors (see below) connect the
alligator clip to the black stud with a punch mark on it
(battery-) then probe the red stud with a punch mark on it
(battery+). Your test light should light up. Check connections if
it doesn't.
Test # 3 For A & B style contactors (see below)
connect the alligator clip of your test light to the yellow stud
(winch motor) then probe the blue stud (winch motor). There should
be no light. Now push the handle bar switch. The tester
should light up in both directions. If you get no light or light
in one direction only, replace the contactor. For C style
contactors (see below) connect the alligator clip to the black stud
without a punch mark (winch motor) then probe the red stud
without a punch mark. There should be no light. Now push
the handle bar switch. The tester should light up in both
directions. If you get no light or light in one direction only,
replace the contactor. |
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| Contactor connection color code: A&B style
Only |
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Contactor color code C
Style |
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Blue post connects to winch motor |
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Black post with punch mark goes to
Battery- (Negative) |
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Yellow post connects to winch
motor |
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Red
post with punch mark goes to battery + (positive) |
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Red post connects to battery + ( positive) |
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Black post with no punch mark
connects to winch motor. |
Black post connects to battery- (negative)
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Red
post with no punch mark connects to winch motor. |
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Contactor "A" |
Contactor "B" |
Contactor "C" |
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This is the 8 post contactor found in the Classic kits and
some of the smaller MAX kits. Only 4 posts are used the other
four are covered with small caps. This contactor is used
in several different kits. Note the colored posts. (see
chart above) |
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This is the
new style contactor and is found in the new MAX kits. Much
simpler design, only 4 posts to worry about. The cap is molded
with dividers to aid in keeping cables away from each other.
Color coding is the same as the old style. (see chart above)
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This little gem has caused some excitment. This contactor is
found in the MAX 3500lb-4500lb winch kits. As you can see
there are 4 posts. Two black posts and two red posts.
Great.......! Easy solution. Look closely at the tops of the
connection posts. The two posts that are
closest to the green and black wires will have a small punch
mark in the center of them. These posts get connected to the
battery and the other two posts get connected to the winch
motor. |
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Here is a
typical winch set up. The only connection that needs to be
made yet is the small red power supply wire that comes out of
the handlebar switch harness. This wire gets connected to a
switched 12 volt DC power supply on your ATV. Typically
connected to the main power at the key switch (consult the
wiring diagram for your ATV). As you can see there are 8
connections for the main cables, two at the winch, four at the
contactor, and two at the battery. The green and black wires
simply plug in to the contactor.
Click here for a full size image
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Question: When I push the "in button"
the cable goes out and when I push the "out button" the cable goes
in, what's up? |
| Answer: Just reverse the
cables going to the winch motor. This will make the winch motor
run in the opposite direction. |
| Question: How do I
know which post on the winch motor is +(positive) and which one is
-(negative) |
| Answer: It doesn't
matter. They can be reversed if needed. |
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Reserved
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